A rough poled route heads down the valley from Boyd Lodge, passing the airstrip on the western side. Poles are sporadic, and it is possible to lose the track across open low tussock.

The track crosses the Ngaruroro River (less than knee deep, 3m wide, but could flood easily after rain), and passes below a steep truncated spur of vertical river gravel. Soon beyond a metal signpost on the eastern bank marks the turn east out of the valley to Tussock Hut. This is the start of a 2m wide Kaweka 'highway' - a well maintained cut, marked track through first Manuku scrub and later beech forest. This climbs gently to the summit before dropping into the head of the Harkness and exiting the beech just above and opposite Tussock Hut, Poles lead the lad few hundred meters to the hut. 1h45-3hrs

Note: Described in the reverse direction to your journey

No description

The head of the Harkness at Tussock Hut lives up to the hut's name – a broad, gentle, V of a valley, clad in golden tussock. The track crosses the trickle of a stream and sidles the western face. The valley becomes slowly scrubbier as we head downstream – tussock becoming low scrub , later rising to waist height. The poled track changes from a foot-worn slot between tussocks to a full 1.5m-wide, cut Kaweka track. The gentle valleysides become steeper and rocky, and finally the track abandons efforts to sidle and drops to the Harkness River – now a couple of meters wide. Some 20 crossing follow – most of which can be hopped across with dry feet intact, but near the end there’s one which always catches me out. Fill your boots! The route should be navigable in all but extreme rain,

The track junction (on the western bank at the major forks) for the turnoff to Harkness Hut is signposted.

Note: Described in the reverse direction to your journey

Above the forks and track junction, the track to Tussock follows the valleyfloor for the first 2-3km, crossing the creek numerous times. The creek is small, but wet feet almost guaranteed. It is unlikely the creek would be uncrossable except in the worst of weather.

The steep, rocky and scrubby valleysides slowly soften and transition to tussock, and finally the track climbs the western face and leaves the creek below. The remaining scrub soon ceases, and we enter a broad valley of gently sloping tussock. A further 2km on well used poled track on the western valleyside leads to the head of the valley, where Tussock Hut site across the now-small stream.

Harkness is another standard forestry 6-bunker, pimped up in Kaweka style. 40m above the valley floor on a small clear spur. Lagged and lined, a large deck across the front, woodburner and sink fitted - a comfortable spot. On a cold morning, with frost coating everything in the valley floor below, you appreciate that you made that last climb to this warmer spot.

Standard Hut

From Harkness Hut, a marked track drops to the creek. A poled route then follows the vallyfloor 800m downriver to the forks, crossing the creek 4 times. A signpost at the forks marks the track junction.

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The track junction for the turnoff to Harkness Hut is signposted up the NE fork, and another broad Kaweka track heads up the north-east fork towards the hut, crossing the creek another 4 times. You can see the hut clearing on the northern slopes ahead, where tussock valley transitions back to beech. It’s a brief rocky scramble up the track to the hut, some 40m out of the valleyfloor.

Below the Harkness forks the track remains on the valley for for a further 2km with a handful more stream crossings. The stream is knee deep (normal flows) at most crossings, but still quite narrow - 2 to 3m wide. The track then climbs the western valleyside through mature beech forest and sidles the remaining 3km before dropping to Ngaawapurua Hut 50m upriver form the forks with the Ngaruroro. 1.5-3 hrs

Note: Described in the reverse direction to your journey

From Ngaawapurua Hut the track heads north climbing & sidling along the western side of the valley for 1 km through mature beech forest, before swinging NW-N & continuing to sidle in to & out of narrow, 2-3m wide streams (knee deep in normal flow) for another 2 kms. The track drops into the valley floor for the next 2 km with numerous side-creek crossings leading up to the Harkness forks.

The route towards Otutu/Manson from Ngaawapurua Hut crosses private land and as such DOC no longer maintain it. To hammer the point home they have removed the swingbridge over the Ngaruroro too,.

From Ngaawpurua hut, head downriver either on terraces or in the Harkness riverbed to the forks. There is a good pool with the options to either ford at the outflow, or swim in the deep slow section at the forks. The river was waist deep when I visited in normal flows, could eisily become impassible, and even at in normal condiitions would not be recommended for those uncomfortable/unfamiliar with river crossings.

Once across, head up onto the terrace just downstream/opposite the forks - there remains of the track climb there, or just make your own way. A clearing exists on the terrace with potential for camping if the river were up, heading north. From the clearing the old track heads up the spur to the SW. The track is still marked with intermittent permolat / tape, but it not maintained. However, the ground-trial is fairly obvious - the track is moderately well used - and the spur itself is obvious. The route should not pose trouble to people used to following routes/badly maintained tracks.

Climbing through beech and later scrubby manuka you emerge onto a sharp rocky ridgeline, and 800m later reach the signposted track junction at pt1373. 1hr15-2hr30 hut to juncton

Note: Described in the reverse direction to your journey

The route north of pt 1373 to Ngaawapurua Hut crosses private Maori land & the track is old & non-maintained but the ground trail is obvious as the track is moderately well-used. Note the swing bridge over the Ngaruroro River below the hut has been removed, however the Ngaruroro River can be crossed in all except flood conditions.

From the high point of 1373 head north climbing & dropping 800m over several bush covered knolls & rocky out crops before swinging NE & descending a bush covered spur (steep in places) & marked intermittently with permolat/ cruise tape, to the true right of the Ngaruroro River just below the forks with Harkness Stream. Once at the waters edge, head slightly up-stream of the forks with Harkness Stream & locate a good crossing point. One can either cross at the outflow or by swimming a deep slow pool near the forks. Once across on the other side head up-stream either on river terraces or in the Harkness riverbed to Ngaawapurua Hut which sits at the back of a grassy clearing overlooking the river.

From the track junction at pt1373 the cut, marked track to Otutu Hut drops through beech forest to a saddle, before climbing onto tops of scrubby subalpine plants. The tops route is poled & clear on the ground. Swinging south, it drops back into the beech for another saddle before emerging into a second clearing at Otutu Hut.

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From Otutu Hut head north along the beech-clad ridge dropping into a saddle via a beautifully cut & well-marked track, adorned with thick layers of moss either side of the track. The beautiful track gradually climbs to the scrubby open poled tops, climbing to an un-named high point (SE of pt 1411) where there are magnificent views west to Ruapehu & Ngauruhoe. The route swings east, dropping to the bush edge & into another bush saddle SW of pt. 1373 where a stamped metal sign post indicates Rocks Ahead Hut, Manson Hut & Manson Biv. No mention of Ngaawapurua Hut to the north, accessed via private Maori Land which permission is needed to cross.

Heading south from Otutu Hut, keep an eye on the eastern bush edge. The track is poorly defined and featured only a coupe of poles on my visit. Crossing the highpoint south of Otutu then swinging east it drops to the bushedge, where a good marked, cut track starts - indicated by a triangle on the bushedge.

The track drops steeply to the small creek (normally easy - dry feet - but could flood in really heavy rain), then climbs the opposite valley side, soon emerging into clearings. A climb up the tussock ridgeline, dotted with beech follows to reach the Manson tops. The poled route crossed the Manson highpoint & drops to meet the main track at a signposted junction 200m east.

Note: Described in the reverse direction to your journey

From the open top junction NE of Manson, climb 200m SW to the top of Mansion via a poled route. Over the next 1km the route drops SW-W along a tussock ridge, passing through a short beech grove & down a short rocky gut to the bush edge, marked by a large orange triangle. A well-used track develops in the bush & drops steeply to a stream junction in Mason Creek which can be crossed normally with dry feet. The track then sidles very briefly up the true right of the main branch of Manson Creek before climbing very steeply for 200m up a well-marked & well-cut track to the bush edge. From here a sporadically poled route swings NE through beautiful tussocks & open tops to a high point south of Otutu Hut, before descending close to the eastern bush edge to the hut & a nearby weather station.

From the signposted Otutu Hut turnoff, the Manson Tops track continues SE across broad tops. After about 500m the track starts to swing south & a stamped metal signposted junction is reached with the main poled route dropping south off the main ridge towards Manson Hut & a poled (though not shown on maps) route continuing SE along the ridge to Manson Biv.

Note: Described in the reverse direction to your journey

Continuing NW from the Manson Biv junction, the poled route reaches another stamped metal signposted track junction after 500m - just below the Manson highpoint. This is the turnoff to Otutu Hut.

From the Manson Biv turnoff the poled Manson tops route drops south of the broad tops onto a narrow ridge, which it follows for 2km to the stamped metal signposted turnoff to Manson Hut. The hut lies on the bushedge 50m down the sidetrack.

Note: Described in the reverse direction to your journey

From the track junction above Mason Hut, the poled Manson tops route runs due north along a narrow ridge for 1.5km before climbing to broad gravel & clay-pan tops. A stamped metal signpost 500m SE of the Manson highpoint marks the turnoff to Manson Biv.

From Manson hut, climb 50m back to the ridgeline track. The poled route runs south along exposed tops & is well marked & well travelled. The descent to pt. 1045 on steep, slippery clay-pan can be dodgy when wet & at pt. 1045 the track cuts south across a clay-pan/ fine scree face to the west of the peak to reach a saddle beyond - this section is steep & not well marked. At the saddle south of pt. 1045 the track enters bush & is well cut & well marked (2018)) as it zigzags down to the Ngarurora River which it crosses on a swingbridge 700m downriver of Kiwi Mouth Hut. An excellent track runs up the true left side of the river to the hut. I've never spotted the 'short-cut' track shown on maps which drops directly to the hut. I suspect it no longer exists.

Note: Described in the reverse direction to your journey

Heading downriver on the true left from the Kiwi Mouth Hut a well marked & well cut track runs 700m SW to a swing-bridge. A signpost at a junction just above the Ngaruroro River indicates the route downriver to Cameron Hut. Crossing the bridge, the track becomes indistinct & it climbs ever so slightly through, over & under a significant number of windfalls (July, 2018) to meet the spur running down from Manson Hut. Once on the spur things improve dramatically. It is a consistent climb north to the first of two bush knobs before pt. 1045. The track cuts across the western face of pt. 1045 on ill-defined slips & clay-pans which are steep & slippery after rain, eventually reaching a saddle north of the aforementioned high point. From here on, travel is on a well-used & well-marked poled route, climbing steeply through the last of the beech to the open tops of the ridgeline, where the views begin to unveil themselves. Continuing in a NW direction the track climbs higher through tussocks & clay-pans, skirting around the NE side of pt. 1311, before turning due north 1km before Manson Hut. A number of old tree stumps are passed on the scree covered tops. A stamped metal signposted indicates the turnoff to Manson Hut, which sits 50m below the ridgeline in a tongue of bush.

Behind Kiwi Mouth hut the signposted track climbs steeply up the face towards pt1238. Initially the spur is ill-defined. The track is well marked, but in places not obvious on the ground where it follows chutes or open claypan faces. At 600 vertical meters in 1km it is a steep, hard climb.

On reaching the summit, the track enters beech forest on the flat tops. A signposted track junction is reached 300m beyond marking the turnoff south to Cameron Hut (and the faster route to Kurikapango bypassing the descent to Kiwi Saddle), the main track continuing east to Kiwi Saddle Hut.

Note: Described in the reverse direction to your journey

From the Kiwi Mouth - Kiwi Saddle track junction the orange track markers become prolific & you climb gently through beech forest to the flat high point of pt. 1238. Dropping in a NW direction you negotiate your way down a 'single-lane' width track through beech & alpine scrub before emerging onto open clay-pan faces. From this point to the bush line proper, you essentially connect up the various steep (600m in 1km) open NW facing clay-pans & clay-shutes as the route descends an ill-defined spur. Orange triangles become sparse & at some of the larger clay-pans care needs to be taken to identify the exit point as it is not always at the base of the clay-pan. The route steepens & swings west, & the views across to the expansive open tops of Mt Meany & the ridge up to the Manson Tops is impressive. Eventually, you hit the bush line & the gradient eases somewhat & eventually you are greeted by the distinctive orange of Kiwi Mouth Hut, sitting beside the Ngaruroro River.

A rough & unmaintained but sporadically marked track runs north-south between the Kiwi Saddle - Kiwi Mouth track & the Cameron Hut track. From the Cameron Hut - Kiwi Mouth track junction the track drops gently 100m into a beech-clad saddle, where care should be taken to keep to the right as you near the actual saddle to avoid heading down a false spur that runs between the heads of two streams west of the track as shown on the map. As you approach the saddle the markers become increasingly sporadic but as you near the north side of the saddle a foot-bed is evident & the climb out is straight forward. In a surprise, you reach the bush edge, emerging into an open area & are met by what can only be described as a 'single-lane highway', such is the width of the track as it passes through shoulder height alpine scrub. This is followed to the bush edge not far below the Kiwi Mouth - Kiwi Saddle track junction, which sits inside the bush. There are steel sign posts at both ends of this track.

Note: Described in the reverse direction to your journey

A rough, unmaintained but marked track runs north-south between the Kiwi Saddle-Kiwi Mouth track and the Cameron Hut track. The track drops 100m to a beech-clad saddle before climbing to the track junction at the far end. Both ends are signposted.

From the Cameron - Kiwi Mouth junction, the track continues a further 500m west along the ridgeline, popping out into open tops almost immediately beyond the junction & there are magnificent views of Mt Ruapehu. The track skirts along the bush edge through pockets of clay-pans & then into beech forest as it gradually descends the ridge until reaching a prominent rocky outcrop. Here, the track abruptly veers steeply south into a gully. This descent is short before the track sidles & re-joins the ridge line below the rock outcrop. From this point on a precipitous descent to the Ngaruroro River begins; the broad 'Kaweka highway' is gone; the track cut only by the passing of feet as it zig-zags its way down a narrow foot bed & through a series of crumbling slips & two major clay-pan chutes with brief linking gravelly sidles between them. The descent goes on for ever - in & out of scree chutes & out onto smaller clay-pan faces. These faces are 'fine' in the dry but lethal after rain.

The track climbs very briefly to the top of a small open rocky knob from where it veers across the spur & enters the reprieve of the beech forest. At this knob, features on the valley-floor resolve into objects as you descend to a semi-circular flat, trapped between a sweeping curve of the river & the steep sides of the gorge. A large, circular clearing in the middle of the flat is a small dry lakebed. The sea of green becomes tall, mature manuka, growing some 10m tall on the flat. At the base of the spur a mossy highway is met & the track makes it's way along beautiful beech covered river terraces to a track junction: Kiwi Mouth Hut & Te Iringa to the right, Kurikapango (via the river) left but no mention of Cameron Hut. Closer inspection of the steel signs shows someone has scribbled Cameron Hut being to the left. Tall manuka poles line the track as it heads briefly downriver before swinging south towards the point of the peninsula. Cameron Hut sits in a moss-carpeted clearing 50m back from the river.

Note: Described in the reverse direction to your journey

From Cameron Hut, a cut, marked track leads north across the small flat to the base of the spur. A signposted track junction points upriver to Te Iringa & Kiwi Mouth Hut (via the river) or north up the face to the Cameron - Kiwi Mouth track junction.

Simply put, the 600m climb is steep & basic, becoming more of a route than track, the higher one climbs. The route climbs through beech forest to a small open rocky knob before it zig-zags it's way further up the spur via a series of crumbling slips & two major clay-pan chutes, linked via brief gravelly sidles. The ascent goes on for ever - in & out of scree chutes & traversing smaller clay-pan faces. These faces are 'fine' in the dry but barely passable after rain due to the smooth slippery surface & lack of things to hold onto: 'like butter spread on steel plate' my trip notes report. Walking poles or another aid would be useful after rain. Eventually, you reach more solid bush & a gravel surface & climb out onto the beech covered spur above a prominent rock outcrop on the spur proper. From here, you climb gradually through open mature beech forest along a broad cut & marked track & onto open tops, before swinging east for 500m to the Cameron - Kiwi Mouth track junction where a marked route heads north through a broad saddle towards pt. 1238 & Kiwi Mouth Hut, with the main track continuing east towards the Kiwi Saddle - Kurikapango junction.

Dropping gently east through bush the track reaches a boggy saddle, and the starts to climb gently. Leaving the bush out onto a scrubby broad ridgeline, the junction with the Mangahao track is soon reached. A signpost marks the junction.

Note: Described in the reverse direction to your journey

The signpost at the Mangahao junction say 30 minutes to Te Matawai, but you could crawl it in that!

A good track heads west from the junction, soon entering mature bush and shelter from the elements. After a boggy saddle, the track starts to climb gently, and soon Te Matawai Hut appears beside the track.

The signpost at the Mangahao junction say 30 minutes to Te Matawai, but you could crawl it in that!

A good track heads west from the junction, soon entering mature bush and shelter from the elements. After a boggy saddle, the track starts to climb gently, and soon Te Matawai Hut appears beside the track.

Note: Described in the reverse direction to your journey

Dropping gently east through bush the track reaches a boggy saddle, and the starts to climb gently. Leaving the bush out onto a scrubby broad ridgeline, the junction with the Mangahao track is soon reached. A signpost marks the junction.

The signpost at the Mangahao junction say 30 minutes to Te Matawai, but you could crawl it in that!

A good track heads west from the junction, soon entering mature bush and shelter from the elements. After a boggy saddle, the track starts to climb gently, and soon Te Matawai Hut appears beside the track.

Note: Described in the reverse direction to your journey

Dropping gently east through bush the track reaches a boggy saddle, and the starts to climb gently. Leaving the bush out onto a scrubby broad ridgeline, the junction with the Mangahao track is soon reached. A signpost marks the junction.

Dropping gently east through bush the track reaches a boggy saddle, and the starts to climb gently. Leaving the bush out onto a scrubby broad ridgeline, the junction with the Mangahao track is soon reached. A signpost marks the junction.

Note: Described in the reverse direction to your journey

The signpost at the Mangahao junction say 30 minutes to Te Matawai, but you could crawl it in that!

A good track heads west from the junction, soon entering mature bush and shelter from the elements. After a boggy saddle, the track starts to climb gently, and soon Te Matawai Hut appears beside the track.