Altitude: 1085m to 1784m. Gain: 534m. Loss: 699m . Gradient: 30 deg (Moderate-hard)
Skills: Occasional scrambles (3/7) - Streams (2/5) Winter - High avalanche risk, iceaxe/crampons (7/7)
Climb up through tussock along stream to base of rock. From here, climb onto rock on right hand side (true left of stream). Do not attempt to use the stream, as it soon has waterfalls and true right has a lot of loose rock (rocks were falling from above). Climbing up the rock face is easy - solid and lots of foot and hand holds with a distinct foot pad in places. Follow the rock and tussock all the way to the top of the ridge, where it is easy to drop down into the middle of the true saddle. Descent down the "scree" on the northern side is straightforward - it has large pieces and isn't very loose, so doesn't move much. Stay slightly to the right, to intersect with a line of small cairns dotted on top of the larger rocks. When these run out, there is a "V" of loose rock and tussock slightly to your left - use this to descend to the tussocky plateau. The plateau consists of larger tussock interspersed with speargrass. Keep descending on the left edge of the thicker vegetation/scrub until another large rock and cairn is reached. From there turn hard right (90o) towards the trees, where the first orange triangles are spotted. Stay away from stream on the left - it'll soon turn into a large waterfall! In the trees, a nice looking, marked track sidles across to a creek, from there it is a steep descent down. At one point the track is higher above the stream and the triangles seem to end - climb down into the creek bed and down for a few meters, where you should see triangles continuing on the true right. Back into the trees on the far side, the track becomes easy to follow down to the D'Uville Forks.