Routes
Huts / campsites
Roadends
Summits
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Scenic features
Junctions
DOC Land
Altitude: 3m to 1409m. Gain: 4177m. Loss: 4700m . Gradient: 9 deg (Moderate-hard)
Skills: Occasional scrambles (3/7) - Prolonged rivers (4/6)
This is a tough off-track packrafting route from the Worsley to Milford Sound with often limited camping options (especially in heavy rain), following the early explorers W.G. Grave and his companions to Sutherland Sound in 1905. It can be read about their sufferings and difficulties on their way back crossing Hunter Pass in the book „Beyond the Southern Lakes“.
(Day 1: Worsley Hut to Castle Junction
Moirs Guide South S. 74
Day 2: Castle Junction to Worsley North Branch Junction
Moirs Guide South S. 74)
Day 3: Worsley North Branch to Hanging Valley
Moirs Guide South S. 76
Time: 8–9 hours
From the camp at the fork, it is possible to walk easily up to the Worsely North Branch along the riverbed, although you will occasionally need to veer left or right to avoid waterfalls. At the fork, follow the stream a short way uphill to the left until it disappears into the undergrowth just past the waterfall. After a short while, you will come across a grassy slope that provides easy access to the hanging valley. From there, try to find the easiest route through the densely overgrown boulder field to the left-hand side, and make your way along the grassy slopes to a diagonal ramp leading to the Bernhard Burn Saddle. From there, you can simply walk along the ridge to the saddle east of PT 1380 and descend diagonally across moderately steep grassy slopes. Camping is possible by the tarns, although the ground is boggy.
Day 4: Hanging Valley to Swan Mere
Moirs Guide South S. 76, 70
Time: 7-8 hours
From there, follow deer trails down to the point where the stream enters the tree line. On the true left, good deer trails lead you down the first section until it’s possible to walk in the riverbed again. From the 700m mark, however, this becomes more difficult and you have to switch to the true right side. As Moir’s guide mentions, you should stay as close to the stream as possible, although large boulders may force you further to the right. From around 450m, the going becomes easier again along very good animal tracks to Dark River. From there, you can also follow animal tracks along the true right to Swan Mere. There are plenty of good tent sites on grassy areas on the so-called ‘Cricket Pitch’ just before it.
Day 5: Swan Mere to Lake Grave
Moirs Guide South S. 70
Time (including paddle): 8-10 hours
Then follow the lakeshore to roughly the middle of Swan Mere, where the ancient boulder field begins. From there, climb gently to just under 200m and then descend gently again to the edge of the first large swamp. This section is extremely slow going and can take up to two hours, as you have to find your way through thick windfall and large boulders. From the end of the swamp, the going becomes easier again and the boulders disappear completely. Make your way slowly back towards the 200m line along the mountain edge until you reach an open area. From there, it is not far to a waterfall, whose riverbed allows for a quick walk to Lake Grave. There you will find a good hunter’s camp. A packraft is recommended for Lake Grave, as the route around the left side is an absolute nightmare. The route can be found in articles by Tony Sharpe (1996/97) „Light in the Dark“ and Penny Hazards article from the AUTC (1983) in „A Trampers Journey“ by Mark Pickering, pp. 66–68. Camping on the northern shore of Lake Grave is also possible but limited.
Day 6: Lake Grave to Lake Dale
Moirs Guide South S. 70, 69, 68
Time: 8–9 hours
From the smaller lake behind Lake Grave, you can follow large boulders on the true right for a while until you are forced to head into the bush (between the 80
& 100m line) until you reach Sutherland Sound. From there, you can paddle a short distance into the Light River, after which it’s an easy walk along the true left bank to the waterfall, which you can climb via the true right, and then largely follow the riverbed to a small saddle just before Lake Dale. The northern shore of Lake Dale is extremely marshy, which is why camping would be better suited here. You can either go round Lake Dale on the left-hand side or, much more quickly, cross it by packraft.
Day 7: Lake Dale to Staircase Creek Saddle
Moirs Guide South S. 68
Time: 8 hours
Then stick to the edge of the swamp (which is so deep you can sink into it) and follow well-trodden deer trails up to the ridge leading to Pt 941. On the final stretch these tracks disappear and you have to fight your way up steep bluffs through extremely dense monkey scrub, which is pretty time-consuming with large rucksacks. The section up to Pt 1412 is easy and from there you get a good view of Sutherland Falls in the distance. On the descent, it’s important to stay on the steep path at the start of the ridge, although you’ll need to veer left on the final stretch to reach the good camping spots by the tarns.
Day 8: Staircase Creek Saddle to Boatshed Hut
Moirs Guide South S. 65
Time: 9-12 hours
After several days of good weather, I was able to descend Staircase Creek fairly quickly along the riverbed, with the occasional slide to the left or right.
At the first Rapids (575 m), the river became too deep, so I had to walk a short distance on the true right through the bush. Afterwards I was able to climb back down the riverbed until I came out at the Sutherland Falls Track and made my way to the Boatshed on the Milford Track to spend the night. In heavy rain, walking in the riverbed is probably not possible due to the rapids, so you should allow considerably more time for a longer detour around the steep section on the true right especially at the 500 m contour.
Day 9:
Time: 4 hours
Walk out the Milford Track. Paddling across Lake Ada is not recomended as it‘s full of spikey deadheads (submerged logs).