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DOC Land
Altitude: 738m to 926m. Gain: 31m. Loss: 210m . Gradient: 1 deg (Flat)
Skills: Alpine weather (2/7) - Extreme rivers (5/6)
Note: this is a dangerous crossing of one of New Zealand's most hazardous rivers. Though the branch of the Rakaia that comes off the Lyell Glacier is bridged, crossing the branch that flows off the Ramsay Glacier is still a significant undertaking. The current is strong even in low flows, and the water is milky with glacier flour, which makes it difficult to judge depth and conditions. The water is also near-freezing. Do not attempt this crossing unless you are experienced at major river crossings. If in doubt, stay out.
The crossing marked on this map relates to the course of the river as it was in February, 2026. Actual conditions and your crossing point will be different.
After crossing the bridge over the Lyell branch of the Rakaia, gain the moraine wall on the TL bank. On this day, I identified two potential crossing places of the Ramsay branch: one just above the confluence, where the Ramsay branch braided out into four braids, and the other, 1km upstream at the output of the terminal lake. I decided to try the closer spot first. Its only downside was that it had a very short runout as it was only about 100m above the confluence.
The first braid was bouldery, very swift, and above the knee at the deepest point. Crossing solo, I (a 176cm woman weighing about 70kg including my pack) found the water was strong enough to nearly lift my feet. Just as I was considering turning back, the water began to get shallower and the force of the current eased. I continued.
The second and third braids were easy, shin-deep splashes on shingle.
In the bouldery fourth braid, conditions were similar to the first, only I was not able to maintain my footing, and was swept some distance downstream. It happened so quickly — in one moment, I was standing in lee of a waist-high boulder in thigh-deep water, and I put a foot out into the main channel of the braid. I felt that the foot would not stay on the bottom. A split-second later, before I had time to so much as blink, I was in the water, being carried swiftly downstream. Instinctively, I reached out and grabbed for something, and when I stopped moving, I found myself hugging another small boulder about 10-15m downstream. I had been in the river only about 30 minutes when I got swept, but my feet were already turning numb from the cold. I judged that the safest choice was to proceed as the fastest water was now behind me. The rest of the crossing was unremarkable in knee-deep but slower water.
I got lucky that day, and this wasn't the worst example of being swept, but luck doesn't change the fact that I made an error of judgment by committing to a crossing that warned me in the first braid that it would be trouble. Also contributing to my over-commitment was the fact that rain was in the forecast and I was worried that this day would be my last chance to cross. I have spent much time considering my error of judgment in the ensuing months.
I am a lifelong tramper, Canterbury-raised, experienced in major river crossings and Canterbury rivers specifically. This happened in mid-February low flows. Everything people say about the Rakaia is true; it is a river that demands the utmost respect, no matter one's degree of experience or skill.
Once on the TL, the way downriver is straightforward. Climb moraine debris to reach mostly good (occasionally boulder-y) gravel flats and head downriver, aiming roughly for Lauper Biv just past the outlet of the Whitcombe. Downstream of Lauper, the Rakaia begins to cut hard against the TL valley wall, and you may wish to cross a minor braid or two, and/or do some short, low sidles over boulders.
Evans Hut, a tidy, 4WD-accessible NZDA hut with a firebox, is reached about 4.5-5 hours after the crossing.