From Top Kokatahi Hut to Toaroha Saddle Bivvy via Mt Chamberlain
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Distance: 7.4 km (8.0 DOC hours) - Unmarked route, clear - Moderate terrain
Altitude: 1047m to 1787m. Gain: 1109m. Loss: 942m . Gradient: 16 deg (Moderate-hard)
Skills: Prolonged scrambles (4/7)
GPX info source: Drawn on map

A steep climb though manageable tussock slopes leads to the 1st peak south of Zit Saddle, from where views stretch to the West Coast and to the high glaciated peaks north of Mt Cook. These views continue throughout the day.
From the peak a broad ridge leads south over rock / lichen to pt 1809. From here a narrow, rocky ridge cuts east to Mt Chamberlin. Sidling the north face may be the easiest option. Chamberlin’s northern summit is tricky and can be bypassed, again sidling the north face, returning to the ridge for the southern of the two summits. The ridgeline to the next peak south of Chamberlin is even trickier, and the best route seems to be dropping to the corrie to the west of the ridgeline, returning to the ridge and then sidling the eastern face until things improve before the next summit.

From there going’s easier, though multiple ill-defined ridges lead down from Mt Bannatyne – a compass is essential in bad visibility as the obvious ridge is not the one leading to Toaroha saddle. Once on it, however, it’s an easier stroll down an ever-widening ridgeline to Toaroha Saddle. A spectacular waterfall lies at the head of Bannatyne Creek, about 1km east of the saddle. From here the ridgeline, now back in tussock, starts to climb and fall again before reaching the pass / Toaroha Biv, where the track up the Toaroha crosses into the Mungo and descends to Poet Hut.

Created by: Madpom on 2015-08-20. Experienced: 2007-03-21
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